Testing the Limits: Under Armour’s Pricing Play and the Apparel Sector’s Tariff Tipping Point

Eli GrantTuesday, May 13, 2025 12:28 pm ET
17min read

The apparel industry is at a crossroads. Global tariffs, supply chain disruptions, and shifting consumer preferences are forcing companies to choose between maintaining margins or preserving market share. Under Armour’s recent financial results offer a microcosm of this struggle—and a glimpse into how pricing power could become the defining competitive advantage in a cost-driven market.

Under Armour’s Marginal Gambit: A Strategic Shift or a Risky Bet?

Under Armour’s Q1 2025 earnings reveal a deliberate pivot: revenue fell 10% to $1.2 billion, but gross margins expanded by 110 basis points to 47.5%. This improvement wasn’t fueled by tariff-driven price hikes but by a calculated reduction in promotional activity. The company slashed e-commerce discounts by 25%, allowing it to stabilize margins amid a 15% decline in footwear sales—a category particularly vulnerable to price sensitivity.

The move reflects a broader strategy to prioritize profitability over volume. By reducing discounts on direct-to-consumer channels, Under Armour is betting that its brand equity can support higher average prices without alienating customers. But is this sustainable?

Peer Responses: Absorption vs. Escalation

While Under Armour is tightening its purse strings, peers are taking divergent paths. Luxury brands like Nike and Adidas are passing tariff costs to consumers, leveraging their premium positioning. For instance, Nike raised prices on its Air Jordan line by 8% in early 2025, relying on inelastic demand among sneaker enthusiasts. Meanwhile, fast-fashion giants like H&M and Zara are absorbing costs to avoid losing market share in price-sensitive categories.

The split underscores a critical truth: pricing power hinges on brand strength and product differentiation. Under Armour’s focus on reducing discounts, rather than outright price hikes, positions it as a middle ground—a strategy that could backfire if consumers revolt against perceived overcharging but pay off if the brand’s loyal base stays.

Consumer Sensitivity: The Elephant in the Supply Chain

Apparel’s price elasticity remains a double-edged sword. Basic items like T-shirts and jeans are highly sensitive to inflation, with even a 5% price increase risking demand collapse. Conversely, premium products—think Under Armour’s performance gear or Lululemon’s yoga apparel—can absorb tariffs due to their perceived necessity for fitness enthusiasts.

Under Armour’s success hinges on its ability to navigate this divide. By avoiding broad-based price hikes and instead optimizing its promotional strategy, the company is effectively segmenting its market: retaining budget-conscious buyers with discounted essentials while monetizing premium segments at higher margins.

The Tariff Tipping Point: Valuation Risks and Opportunities

The apparel sector’s valuation is now a function of two variables: supply chain agility and pricing discipline. Companies like Under Armour, which have reduced inventory by 15% and streamlined operations through restructuring, are better positioned to weather tariff volatility. Meanwhile, firms overly reliant on tariff-hit regions (e.g., China, Vietnam) face margin compression unless they can reconfigure sourcing or innovate.

Long-term, the sector’s valuation could bifurcate. Investors should favor companies with:
1. Diversified supply chains: Proximity to key markets (e.g., Mexico under USMCA exemptions) or vertical integration.
2. Data-driven pricing tools: AI platforms to assess SKU-level elasticity and simulate tariff impacts.
3. Strong brand equity: Premium players can justify price hikes; value brands must maintain affordability.

Investment Thesis: Playing Defense or Offense?

Under Armour’s Q1 results are a vote of confidence in its ability to manage margins without alienating customers. While risks remain—particularly if tariffs escalate or consumer spending weakens—the company’s focus on cost discipline and brand-centric pricing positions it as a sector bellwether.

Actionable Exposure:
- Buy Under Armour (UAA): For investors willing to bet on its margin resilience and brand-driven pricing.
- Overweight premium players like Lululemon (LULU) or Nike (NKE): Their inelastic demand buffers them against cost pressures.
- Avoid tariff-heavy peers: Companies overly exposed to Chinese or Southeast Asian imports without hedging strategies face margin dilution.

Conclusion: The New Pricing Paradigm

Tariffs aren’t just a cost headwind—they’re a catalyst for sector consolidation. Under Armour’s strategy, while risky, exemplifies the shift toward pricing as a moat. In a world where every basis point matters, the companies that marry brand power with granular cost control will define the next era of apparel leadership.

The time to act is now. The tariff tide is rising, and only the prepared will stay afloat.