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Estee Lauder Faces Fiduciary Probe Over China Sales Decline: What Investors Need to Know

Henry RiversFriday, May 2, 2025 11:12 pm ET
58min read

Estee Lauder Companies Inc. (NYSE: EL) is under scrutiny after Kahn Swick & Foti LLC (KSF), a securities litigation firm led by former Louisiana Attorney General Charles Foti, announced an investigation into potential breaches of fiduciary duty by its officers and directors. The probe centers on the company’s handling of a dramatic sales decline in China and South Korea, exacerbated by regulatory crackdowns on “daigou” gray-market resellers—a situation estee lauder initially downplayed but later admitted to being a critical factor.

The Daigou Dilemma: How Estee Lauder Got Caught in the Crossfire

Daigou resellers—unregulated middlemen who bought luxury goods at duty-free prices and resold them at steep markups—were once a lifeline for Estee Lauder’s sales in China. But in 2021, the China Duty Free Group (CDFG) implemented strict restrictions on these resellers, effectively cutting off a major revenue stream. Estee Lauder initially denied that these policy changes were to blame for its plummeting sales.

It took nearly three years for the company to admit the truth. In November 2023, Estee Lauder finally acknowledged that regulatory shifts in key markets had been a “primary driver” of its sales decline. By then, the damage was done: the company had lost $2.4 billion in market value between 2021 and early 2024.

Legal Landscape and Shareholder Impact

The delayed acknowledgment of these risks has led to a securities class-action lawsuit accusing Estee Lauder of misleading investors. In a significant blow to the company, a court recently denied its motion to dismiss the case, paving the way for a trial. KSF’s investigation now seeks to determine whether executives breached their fiduciary duties by failing to disclose material risks in a timely manner.

The stakes are high. If the plaintiffs prevail, Estee Lauder could face substantial financial penalties. Even if it wins, the prolonged legal battle may deter investors and erode confidence in management’s decision-making.

Why This Matters for Investors

Estee Lauder’s missteps highlight a recurring theme in corporate governance: the pressure to maintain short-term performance at the expense of transparency. The company’s delayed disclosure of regulatory risks in China—a market that accounts for roughly 25% of its revenue—raises questions about how aggressively management prioritized its narrative over shareholder interests.

Moreover, the case reflects broader trends in litigation against consumer goods companies. As regulators globally crack down on gray-market resellers, firms that rely on such channels are increasingly vulnerable to both legal and financial risks. Estee Lauder’s admission in 2023 came after similar issues plagued LVMH and other luxury brands, signaling a shift in how these companies must manage their supply chains.

Conclusion: A Test of Leadership and Accountability

Estee Lauder’s story is a cautionary tale for investors. The company’s stock has fallen nearly 30% since mid-2021, underperforming the S&P 500 by over 40 percentage points during the same period. While the investigation is ongoing, the fact that the securities lawsuit survived dismissal suggests the plaintiffs have credible evidence of wrongdoing.

For shareholders, the key question is whether management has learned from this misstep. Estee Lauder’s ability to recover will depend on its transparency moving forward, its strategy to diversify beyond gray-market reliance, and its capacity to rebuild trust with investors. With KSF—a firm that recovered over $1 billion for clients in 2023—leading the probe, the pressure is on Estee Lauder to prove it’s not just surviving the storm but steering through it.

In the end, this case underscores a simple truth: in an era of heightened scrutiny, corporate transparency isn’t just a best practice—it’s a necessity for long-term shareholder value.

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