Department Store Decline and Softlines Resilience: Finding Defensive Plays in Retail's Rough Seas

The retail sector is navigating stormy waters, with traditional department stores floundering while nimble softlines brands like Lululemon and Nike thrive. As inflation, e-commerce dominance, and shifting consumer preferences reshape the industry, investors must prioritize companies with strong brand equity and strategic operational agility to weather the slowdown. Let's dissect the collapse of legacy retailers and why softlines leaders are defensive plays in this environment.

The Department Store Death Spiral: Store Closures and Structural Challenges

The decline of department stores is no longer a whisper—it's a roar. In 2025, Joann, Macy's, and Walgreens have shuttered hundreds of stores, with Macy's alone planning to cut its footprint by a third by 2026. The reasons are stark:
- Consumer Flight to Value: Discount retailers like Walmart and Target now command 29% of U.S. retail sales, up from 21% in 2019, as shoppers prioritize affordability.
- E-commerce Surge: Online shopping continues to eat into brick-and-mortar foot traffic, with AI-driven competitors like Amazon and fast-fashion giants dominating.
- Legacy Costs: High occupancy expenses and outdated inventory systems make it hard to compete. For instance, Walgreens is slashing 1,200 stores to reduce costs, while Liberated Brands (owner of Quiksilver and Billabong) filed for bankruptcy after failing to adapt.

Ask Aime: Why are department stores struggling and softlines brands thriving in the new retail landscape?

This chart starkly illustrates the divide: Walmart's stock has risen 40% since 2020, while Macy's has plummeted 60%. Investors should avoid retailers clinging to outdated models and instead focus on brands with future-proof strategies.

Softlines Brands: The Resilience Play

While department stores sink, performance-driven softlines brands are proving their mettle. Lululemon, Nike, and Authentic Brands Group (ABG) are leveraging AI, omnichannel integration, and brand loyalty to grow even as the broader sector struggles. Here's how:

1. Lululemon: AI-Driven Precision and Brand Obsession

Lululemon's success is a masterclass in modern retailing. By using Google's Performance Max (PMax), the brand slashed customer acquisition costs and boosted new revenue by double digits. Its AI tools analyze shopping behavior to personalize ads and reduce return rates—a critical issue in apparel, where returns can cost up to 40% of revenue.

The brand's focus on community-building (e.g., yoga events, influencer partnerships) has created a fiercely loyal customer base. Investors should note its 2025 expansion into men's wear and accessories, which could fuel growth in a stagnating market.

2. Nike: Struggling, But Still a Brand Powerhouse

Nike's third-quarter 2025 results were bleak—revenue fell 9%, and Greater China sales dropped 17%. Yet its long-term advantages remain:
- Global Brand Equity: Its association with elite athletes and sport culture still attracts Gen Z and millennials.
- AI-Driven Inventory: Tools like Dynamic Demand Planning reduced overstock by 40% in 2024, a lifeline in an era of fickle demand.
- “Win Now” Strategy: CEO Elliott Hill's focus on sport storytelling and product innovation could reignite growth.

Investors should watch Nike's digital sales rebound and Asia-Pacific recovery. A pullback in stock price could present a buying opportunity if execution improves.

3. ABG: The Retail Reclaimer

Authentic Brands Group, which acquired Quiksilver and Roxy from bankruptcy, exemplifies asset-light resilience. By licensing brands to agile manufacturers and focusing on e-commerce, ABG avoids the overhead that doomed traditional retailers. Its data-driven licensing model—pairing brands with fast-fashion agility—is a blueprint for survival.

Defensive Investing in Retail: What to Look For

1. Brand Strength: Companies with cult-like customer loyalty (e.g., Lululemon's yoga community) outperform in downturns.
2. AI and Omnichannel: Brands using AI for personalization and inventory management (e.g., Nike's Dynamic Demand Planning) reduce waste and retain customers.
3. Light Footprints: Avoid retailers with high store counts; favor digitally native or licensing-driven models.

This comparison shows Lululemon's revenue grew 50% since 2020, while Macy's revenue shrank 25%. The gap underscores the value of agility over scale.

Conclusion: Bet on Brands, Not Bricks

The retail landscape is bifurcating: winners are those who blend strong brands with data-driven efficiency, while losers are stuck in outdated models. For investors:
- Sell: Traditional department stores like Macy's and JCPenney—their costs and declining foot traffic are insurmountable.
- Buy: Lululemon (LULU) for its community-driven model and AI edge; Nike (NKE) on dips if its turnaround gains traction; and ABG (ABGI) for its licensing moat. Historical performance reinforces this strategy: when these companies exceeded earnings estimates by 10% or more, a buy-and-hold approach yielded average returns of 15.46% for LULU, 10.67% for NKE, and 14.23% for ABGI between 2020 and 2025.

The retail apocalypse isn't over—it's accelerating. The survivors will be those who adapt faster than they age.

Investment advice: This analysis is for informational purposes only. Always consult a financial advisor before making investment decisions.