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In the aftermath of the pandemic, the luxury sector has faced a reckoning. Consumers, once flush with stimulus checks and pent-up demand, have recalibrated their priorities. For brands like Burberry, this has meant navigating a landscape where
must compete with immediacy, and where price premiums are no longer automatic. Yet, under the stewardship of CEO Joshua Schulman, Burberry has emerged as a case study in strategic reinvention. By recentering on its core identity, embracing cost discipline, and aligning with broader industry trends, the British brand is charting a path to recovery—and offering investors a compelling narrative of resilience.Burberry's struggles began long before Schulman's arrival. By early 2023, the brand's sales had plummeted by 20% in the first half of its fiscal year, dragged down by a fragmented product strategy and a loss of cultural relevance. The brand's reliance on overpriced, trend-driven items—a departure from its signature trench coats and scarves—alienated its core customer base. Schulman, a 33-year veteran of the luxury sector, was brought in to stabilize the ship. His first move was to launch Burberry Forward, a four-pillar strategy: restoring British heritage, leading with outerwear, aligning distribution with customer needs, and fostering a high-performance culture.
Schulman's playbook hinges on Burberry's DNA. The brand's trench coats and scarves, which account for 35–40% of sales, are not just products—they are symbols of British resilience against the elements. By refocusing on these core items, Schulman has rekindled a sense of authenticity. The Burberry Forward strategy also emphasizes pricing discipline. After a failed experiment with high-priced leather goods, the brand introduced a “good, better, best” pricing tier. The Cotswold and Horseshoe bag lines, for example, have brought the average bag price down by 9% since October 2023, broadening accessibility without diluting luxury status.
Financial discipline has been equally critical. A $135 million cost-cutting plan, including a 20% workforce reduction and streamlined operations, has restored investor confidence. By 2027, these measures are expected to yield $135 million in savings, with gross margins projected to rebound to 70%. Meanwhile, the brand's reputation, as measured by RepTrak, has surged 53 spots to 37th globally—surpassing rivals like Chanel and LVMH. This reputational lift, driven by Schulman's emphasis on heritage and cultural partnerships (e.g., collaborations with the V&A and Highgroove House), signals a reconnection with the brand's emotional core.
Burberry's turnaround aligns with broader shifts in the luxury sector. The post-pandemic era has seen a move away from over-commercialization and toward sustainability and authenticity. Schulman's focus on timeless design and functional outerwear mirrors trends set by brands like Hermès and Dunhill, which thrive by prioritizing craftsmanship over fleeting trends. Additionally, Burberry's shift to a circular business model—clearing excess inventory through outlets and tightening future inventory management—reflects the industry's growing emphasis on environmental responsibility.
Geographically, Schulman is also recalibrating the brand's approach. The U.S., where Burberry has historically struggled, is now a focal point. By doubling down on department store partnerships and high-profile campaigns (e.g., the “Burberry Festival” tied to Glastonbury), the brand is leveraging its British identity to resonate with a younger, culturally engaged audience. This mirrors the industry's pivot toward experiences over products, as seen in luxury travel and wellness ventures.
Despite these strides, challenges remain. The luxury sector's recovery is uneven, with emerging markets like India and Southeast Asia offering growth but requiring delicate cultural navigation. Additionally, Schulman's reliance on heritage could backfire if younger consumers perceive it as outdated. However, the brand's recent financial metrics suggest optimism: while 2024's first-half sales dropped 20%, the second half saw a 5% decline—indicating stabilization. Analysts project £2.39 billion in sales for fiscal 2025, with a 12% holiday-quarter sales drop expected to improve from prior trends.
For investors, the key question is whether Burberry can sustain its momentum. The brand's return to £3 billion in annual revenue—a level last achieved in 2022–2023—hinges on maintaining its pricing tiers, executing cost cuts, and deepening U.S. penetration. Schulman's track record at Coach and Michael Kors, where he drove double-digit growth, lends credibility to this vision.
Burberry's journey under Schulman is more than a corporate revival—it's a blueprint for luxury resilience. By marrying heritage with modernity, cost efficiency with sustainability, and global ambition with cultural authenticity, the brand is redefining what it means to be a luxury icon in the 21st century. For investors, the story offers both risk and reward: a brand in transition, but one with the pedigree and strategy to reclaim its place among the industry's elite. As Schulman's “Burberry Forward” strategy unfolds, the market will be watching closely.
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